Freddy's Plans for Running a Vehicle on Water
Frederick Wells of Future Energy Concept's Inc. said we could post the plans he made available in 2002, from which he built the device that allegedly enable them to run a 2004 Dodge pickup to run on hydroxy gas only, with no petrol.
Preface by Sterling
Pure Energy Systems News
Aug. 26, 2010
We've been reporting recently on Frederick Well's claim to be able to run a
Dodge 2004 pickup truck on water, via on-board electrolysis. He has said
that he has provided the plans openly for people to be able to replicate his
design, but the plans available on his website are not complete. He as
also said that he was on the web a long time ago, with this information.
The following is a copy of some plans he provided, under a different name, back
in January of 2002 to another website. For reasons he did not explain, he
does not want me to just post a link to that page, but he did say I could copy
Reviewing those plans, an expert in the field said:
"They are not complete... However they point you in a direction if you can read through the
"It doesn't seem to electronically match what they are saying in their
video; so I can only assume that they have changed their approach slightly since posting that in 2002.
"I have some very good reasons to think they are telling the truth; and the more I study it, the more
sense it makes.
"I can clearly see that they improved it quite a bit since 2002."
If anyone can replicate this, this expert can, and probably will be the
first; and he will help us post a clear set of plans.
We are working with Freddy to disclose a complete set of plans, and we'll let
you know when we've achieved that milestone. They will be posted to our
feature page at http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:_Hydrogen_Hog_by_Future_Energy_Concepts%2C_Inc.
A fellow hydroxy researcher speaks for pretty much all of us in saying: "I personally just hope that they get to document and publish everything before they too get
Fuel from 'Burning Water'
provided by The Freedom Reclamation Project
*** Preliminary Plans ***
[...] Disclaimer: We have no indication these plans work or will work
as claimed when built, so if you choose to try it, use common sense and
start SMALL, like a lawnmower engine, please report
any successes you might have. They are posted 'as is'.
The following file was received by Dave the Gravman via FAX, he kindly
sent it to be shared out to everyone, thanks Dave!
- Convert your engine to burn hydrogen & oxygen
- Make vapor from water on demand & pollution-free
- Convert your vehicle to a ZPV: Zero Pollution Vehicle
- Freedom from Gasoline
- Simple and inexpensive conversion
- On Demand vapor rate via throttle
- Easy do it yourself public domain plans
- Help clean the air while you save money
These plans can be used to run your car, truck, RV, motorcycle, airplane,
etc. from tap water.
Are you fed up with ga$oline price$ and THE POLLUTION?
Would you like to do something about it besides complain and wait?
Are you still CHOKING on the whole idea of fossil fuel CON$UMPTION? WHY?
Wouldn't you like to free yourself from centrally-controlled or imported
Do you have a 2nd vehicle you don't use every day?
Now there is something we can actually do about it, as individuals
willing to help clean the environment, and travel at lower cost to both you
and your environment. Do-it-yourself plans allow the individual (that's you
and me, folks) to make a difference.
This is the easiest and lowest cost way to convert your car to run on
(relatively) free energy. Now with existing technology, anyone can stand up
and make a difference by reducing the local automotive pollution, eliminate
ga$oline expen$e$, help restore our atmosphere, and breathe a little easier.
You will be making use of your entire existing system, except the fuel tank
and catalytic converter.
Know the Truth and set yourself FREE. Set a good example for the World
you choose to create. Exercise your own Free Will. Live cleaner and
Build and install a low-cost alternative method for running your
vehicle (internal combustion) engine on TAP WATER, using off-the-shelf
components. This is simply an efficient way to convert ordinary tap water
into gaseous Hydrogen and Oxygen, and then burn these vapours in the
engine, instead of that $melly, $tinky, expen$ive 'other $tuff.
This 'minisystem' runs easily from your existing battery and electrical
system, and it plugs into your carburetor with simple off-the-shelf
fittings. You will be installing a plastic water tank, a control circuit,
a reaction chamber, a hi-pressure carb/FI fitting, and 3 gauges (see
Figure 1), and then hooking into your existing carb/FI.
The SIMPLICITY comes from being an 'on-demand' system requiring no
fancy storage, or plumbing. You crank the gas pedal or throttle and you
electrically create more vapour for immediate consumption, on demand; Lo -
Hi Flow Rate as needed from idle - max power. The only real change is that
you are using tap water as fuel, instead of the traditional
petroleum-based fuel. Given, a choice, which way would you choose?
Q: Does it really work?
A: Yes; this is well-established technology dating back to stainless
steel. But be sure to follow these instructions using the proper
mechanical and electrical assembly techniques, as it incorporates the best
qualities of several techniques.
Q: How does it qualify as 'free energy'?
A: If you're paying someone for the water you use, then it is not
strictly 'free'. But, the alternative is to keep buying into the expen$ive
ga$oline and re$ultant hydrocarbon pollution.
Q: ls it Safe?
A: Technically, it is safer than running on fossil fuel, because you
are no longer choking on your own emissions (health-wise), but in general
it is practically as safe as your current gasoline arrangement. You will
be installing a few simple safety devices, using current automotive
Q: What kind of performance can I expect?
A: Properly adjusted, your modified vapour-only fuel system will run
cooler, and at a modestly higher power level. The mileage performance
expected from this design ranges from 50-300 mpg, depending on your
Q: Can I do the modification myself?
A: Why not? If you know someone with basic mechanical and/or electrical
skills, you can even delegate some of the construction. If you are using a
fuel-injected engine, you may have to get a mechanic's opinion.
Q: What is the environmental impact that my vehicle will have?
A: It will be producing H20 steam and unburnt 02, hence it will be
cleaning the environment, rather than dumping nauseous toxins into it.
Plus you will be helping to save our dwindling supply of atmospheric
oxygen. Any excess vapour in the reaction becomes either steam or oxygen.
You can also expect to be receiving more than casual interest from those
Q: Is this really a steam engine?
A: No; really. Exceedingly hi temp & pressure are not used. This is
strictly an internal combustion engine (burning orthohydrogen) with
residual steam in the exhaust as a by product.
Gasoline as a fuel is NOT NECESSARY; it is optional.
1. ORIGIN - In the 19th century, the gasoline portion of the refining
process, was first considered to be a 'waste' product of extracting the
purified crude oil. Later on, it was discovered that it could be $old as
fuel, instead of just dumping it back in the hole as had been the tradition.
2. CONSUMPTION RATE - The gasoline consumption rate for every mass-produced
car has been carefully 'designed in' as a market asset. As an indication,
simply observe how quickly and closely ALL the local different gas stations
adjust their prices. Even the hybrid cars which use electric motors still
consume a designed amount of gasoline, and their price tags are
3. EFFICIENCY - There is a lot of thermochemical energy in gasoline, but
there is even more energy in water. The DOE has quoted about 40%, 50 it is
probably much more than that. Most people are unaware that 'internal
combustion' is DEFINED as: a thermo-vapour process; as in 'no liquid in the
reaction'; AND most of the gasoline in a standard internal combustion
engine, is ACTUALLY CONSUMED cooked and finally broken down) IN THE
CATALYTIC CONVERTER, which happens AFTER the fuel has been not-so-burnt in
the engine. Sadly, this means that most of the fuel we use in this way, is
used only to cool down the combustion process, rather than using a cleaner
and more efficient means to do so.
4. ADDITIVES - Also sadly, we are told by 'authorities' that some of the
many gasoline additives are in the mix to increase performance; but because
of its current overly-complex molecular structure, the real built-in
function of the gasoline formula is to slow down the combustion so that only
so much is actually consumed in the cylinder, and the liquid balance goes to
the catalytic converter. As a further insult, the additives are also there
to clog and prevent the use of the Pogue-style carburetors, designed to get
5. PROFIT - Is the Pope catholic? does the bear poop in the woods? Of course
the oil companies are making a huge profit. It is by design. What do you
suppose the Gulf War was about? Just look at where the crude oil comes from
and where the money is flowing. Rest assured that the oil companies do NOT
want you to know how to make use of this water-fuel technology. They have
been making money on our ignorance, dis-empowerment, and willingness to
follow along in a mindless 'comfort-zone' of toxic waste, suppression,
resentment, and apathy: WHO NEEDS IT?
Let us proceed to set a good example and do it right, do it clean.
Water is pumped as needed to replenish and maintain the liquid level in
the chamber. The electrodes are vibrated with a 0.5-SA electrical pulse
which breaks 2(H20) --- ( 2H2 + 02 ).
OVERVIEW - Here is the suggested sequence of steps:
When the pressure reaches say 30-60 psi, you turn the key and go. You step
on the pedal, you send more energy to the electrodes, and thus more vapour
to the cylinders; i.e. fuel vapour on demand.
You set the idle - max flow rate to get the most efficient use of power,
and you're off to the races.
In the BIG picture, your Free Energy is coming from the tap water, in an
open system, as the latent energy in the water is enough to power the
engine, and hence drive the alternator and whatever belt-driven
accessories; AND the alternator is efficient enough to run the various
electrical loads (10-20 amps), including the additional low current to run
this vapour reaction. No extra batteries are required.
1. Install the CHT (or EGT) gauge and measure your current operating temp
range (gasoline), for comparison.
2. Build & test the controller to verify the correct pulse output.
3. Build the reaction chamber & test it w. the controller (i.e
4. Install the tank, controller, chamber, and pressure fittings.
5. Run engine & Adjust the control circuit as necessary for best
6. Install the stainless steel valves and get the pistons/cylinders coated
7. Coat the exhaust system with ceramic without the catalytic converter OR
let it rust out and replace the whole dang thing with stainless steel pipe
YOU WILL NEED:
- - plastic water tank with pump and level sensor.
- - control circuit, wiring, connectors, and epoxy.
- - reaction chamber with electrodes and fittings.
- - 3/8" stainless steel flex-tubing, fittings and clamps.- carb/FI
vapor-pressure fitting kit. - pressure, CHT (or EGT), & level
- - stainless steel valves.
- - copper mesh junction.
- - ceramic surface treatment for cylinders & pistons.
- - stainless steel or ceramic treated exhaust assembly.
- - drill, screwdriver and pliers
- - hole cutter
- - wire-wrap, solder-iron and clippers
- - DVM and oscilloscope.
Construct as shown in Figure 2. Use a section of 4" PVC waste pipe
with a threaded screw-cap fitting on one end and a standard end-cap at the
Make sure to drill-and-epoxy or tap threads through the PVC components for
all fittings. Set and control the water level in the chamber so that it
well submerses the pipe electrodes; yet leave some headroom to build up
the hydrogen/oxygen vapour pressure.
Use stainless steel wires inside the chamber or otherwise use a protective
coating; use insulated wires outside. Ensure that the epoxy perfects the
seal, or otherwise lay down a bead of water-proof silicone that can hold
The screw fitting may require soft silicone sealant, or a gasket; its
purpose is to hold pressure and allow periodic inspection of the
electrodes. No leaks, no problems. Make sure you get a symmetric 1-5mm gap
between the 2 stainless steel pipes. The referenced literature suggests
that the closer to 1mm you get, the better. You WILL want to get your
chamber level sensor verified BEFORE you epoxy the cap on.
Make your solder connections at the wire/electrode junctions nice, smooth,
and solid; then apply a water-proof coating, e.g. the epoxy you use for
joining the pipes to the screw cap.
This epoxy must be water-proof and be capable of holding metal to
plastic under pressure.
You WILL want to get your chamber level sensor verified BEFORE you epoxy
the cap on.
Figures 3 & 4 show a simple circuit to control and drive this
mini-system. You are going to make a 'square-pulse' signal that 'plays'
the electrodes like a tuning fork; which you can watch on an oscilloscope.
The premise given by the literature is:
NOTE : Figures 4 and 5 have been revised, click on them to see the large version
The faster you want do go down the road, the 'fatter' you make the pulses
going into the reaction chamber. Duty cycle will vary with the throttle in
the vicinity of 90%Mark 10%Space (Off/On).
There is nothing sacred about how the pulse waveform is generated; there
are many ways to generate pulses, and the attached diagrams show a few.
Figure 4 gives the NE555-circuit approach from the referenced patent. The
output switching transistor must be rated for
1-5 amps @ I2VDC (in saturation).
Go with a plan that works for you or your friendly neighborhood
technoid or mechanic, and go get all the circuit elements from your local
electronics store, such as Radio-Shack or Circuits-R-Us, including the
circuit board, IC sockets, and enclosure/box.
DigiKey has better selection, service, and knowledge; plus they have no
minimum order crap. Be sure to use a circuit board with a built-in ground
plane, and to accommodate room for mounting 2 or 3 of the gauges. Mounting
the reaction chamber in the engine compartment will require running a stub
to your pressure gauge where you can watch it.
You can easily make 30-gauge wire-wrap connections between the socket pins
and through-hole discrete components having wire leads. Also make sure to
get spec sheets on any IC you use. More details of the best circuits to
use will be announced pending prototype testing. You WILL want to get your
chamber level sensor verified BEFORE you epoxy the cap on.
If you have a throttle position sensor, you should be able to access the
signal from the sensor itself OR from the computer connector. This signal is
input to the circuit as the primary control (i.e. throttle level pulse width
= vapour rate).
If you don't have such a signal available, you will have to rig a rotary POT
(variable resistor) to the gas linkage (i.e. coupled to something at the gas
pedal or throttle cable running to the carb or Fl. If you make the
attachment at the cart/Fl, be sure to use a POT that can handle the engine
temp cycles. Don't use a cheezy-cheapy POT; get one rated for long life and
mechanical wear; mount it securely to something sturdy and stationary that
will not fall apart when you step on the gas.
The full throttle RANGE (idle-max) MUST control the vapour rate, i.e.
pulse-width (duty). The resistor values at the throttle signal must allow
the throttle signal voltage, say 1-4 Volt swing, to drive the VAPOR RATE.
You will be using this voltage swing to generate a 10% ON 'square' pulse.
CHT (or EGT):
The patent implies using a 'resonant' pulse in the 10-250 KHz frequency
range; but it is not explicitly stated so. In this circuit, you will simply
tune to whatever frequency makes the most efficient vapour conversion. You
will have to get into the specs for each IC you use, to insure you connect
the right pins to the right wires, to control the frequency and pulse width.
You can use spare sockets to try out different discrete component values.
Just keep the ones that are spec-compatible in the circuit, and get the job
You crank up the throttle signal and put more electrical energy (fatter
pulses) into the electrodes; verify you can get 10% duty on the scope (2 -
100 usec on the horizontal time-base). Your averaging DVM will display the
90%-I 0% DC voltage across the output transistor (Vce or Vds or Output to
Ground). Set and connect DVM in the supply current and measure .5 - 5 amps,
without blowing the DVM fuse. Now verify that you got everything you wanted.
Verify your wiring connections using your DVM as a continuity detector.
Check your wiring 1 at a time and yellow line your final schematic as you
go. You can best use board-mount miniature POTs for anything you want to
set-and-forget. The LEDs are there to give you a quick visual check of
normal vs abnormal operation of your new creation. You WILL want to get your
chamber level sensor verified BEFORE you epoxy the cap on (see Figures 2
Figure 2 also shows that fittings are required to the carb/FI I. There are
ready-made kits (such as by Impco) available for making your pressure
fittings to the carburetor or fuel-injector as the case may be. You will
necessarily be sealing the built in vents and making a 1-way air-intake.
The copper mesh comprises the inadvertent backfire' protection for the
reaction chamber. Make sure that all vapor/duct junctions are air-tight and
holding full pressure without leakage. Your new 'system' is considered
successful and properly adjusted when you get the full power range at lower
temp and minimum vapor flow without blowing the pressure safety valve.
Monitor your engine temp with the CHT (cylinder head temp) or EGT (exhaust
gas temp) instead of your original engine temp indicator (if any). Your
existing gauge is TOO SLOW for this application and will not warn you
against overheating until after you have burnt something.
Make sure that your engine RUNS NO HOTTER than in the gasoline arrangement.
VDO makes a CHT gauge with a platinum sensor that fits under your spark plug
against the cylinder head (make sure it is REAL CLEAN before you reinstall
your spark plug (as this is also an electrical ground).
Get the valves replaced with stainless steel ones AND get the
pistons/cylinders ceramic-treated ASAP when you have successfully converted
and run your new creation. Do not delay as these items WILL RUST, either by
sheer use or by neglect (i.e. letting it sit). You could make max use of
your current exhaust system by using it with your new deal until it rusts
through, then have your mechanic or welder friend to fit a stainless steel
exhaust pipe (no catalytic converter is required). But it could be ea$ier to
send your existing exhaust system out for the ceramic treatment, and then
simply re-attach it to the exhaust ports.
1. Do not discard or remove any of the old gasoline set up components, e.g.
tank, carb/FI, catalytic converter, unless necessary. Better to always leave
an easy way to revert back to something that at least runs, just in case.
Some people are leaving their gasoline set up completely intact, and
switching back and forth at will, just to have a backup plan.
2. Set your throttle circuit so that you get minimum vapour flow at IDLE,
and maximum vapour flow at FULL POWER without blowing the pressure relief
valve. In this way, you control how 'lean' your mixture is by the strength
of the pulse (i.e. 'fatness' at the optimum pulse frequency).
If you just don't get enough power (at any throttle setting), it means that
you need to
Always use an output transistor, such as a MOSFET, that is rated for the
voltage and current you need to get the job done. OK so you might have to play
around with it some. Isn't that where all the Fun is anyhow?
- (1) change the pulse frequency,
- (2) change the gap between the electrodes,
- (3) change the size (bigger) electrodes, OR
- (4) make a higher output pulse voltage (last resort).
If you get ANY engine knock our loud combustions (not compensated by adjusting
the timing), it means that you need to install an additional coil in the
chamber, and drive the coil with an additional pulse signal (about 19 Hz on
the .lsec time base) (see Figure 5).
Here, you will be slowing down the burn rate just enough so that the vapours
burn throughout the power stroke of the piston. Be sure to include a
board-mount POT to set the correct strength of this 2nd pulse signal into the
coil. This is a stainless steel coil of about 1500 turns (thin wire) that you
can arrange like a donut around the center pipe (but NOT touching either
electrode), directly over the circular 1-5mm gap. You want NO KNOCKING at any
power/throttle setting; smooth power only, but also no excess hydrogen
leftover from the combustion.
5. Build the canister(s) as tall as you can without compromising your
ability to mount them conveniently near the dash panel, or in the engine
compartment, as the case may be. This way, you can always make the
electrodes bigger, if necessary without undue hardship. Remember that
anything in the engine compartment should be mounted in a bullet-proof,
vibration and temperature tolerant fashion.
6. If you have to drill a through-hole for wiring or plumbing through metal,
make sure to also install a grommet for protection against chafing. Always
watch your chamber pressure range from IDLE (15-25 psi) - FULL POWER (30-60 psi) - Set your safety-pressure
relief-valve to 75 psi and make sure it's rated for much higher.
7. Shut OFF the power switch and pull over if there is any MALFUNCTION of
the system. Your engine will last longest when it still develops FULL POWER+
at some minimum temperature that we are sure you can find, by leaning back
the Royal Vapour Flow and/or by making use of the water-vapour cooling
technique (see Figure 7). Keep good mpg performance records, and periodic
maintenance/inspection. Keep it clean; save some money; clean the air; heal
the planet; happy motoring; tell a friend; enjoy your freedom and
self-empowerment; haul ass.
8. There lacks documented material for perfecting this vapour system through
a fuel injector; there may be some details you will discover on your own as
working prototypes progress. For example, you may be restricted to inject
the hydrogen/oxygen vapour WITHOUT ANY water vapour, as it may rust the
injectors. If engine temp and CHT is a problem, then you will want to
re-think your plan, e.g. ceramic-coating the injectors. There is always
'replacing the Fl system with a Carb'.
9. If you install the water-vapour system (for lower operating temp/stress),
you will want to lean the mixture (vapour/air) for minimum vapour flow rate
to achieve any given throttle position (idle - max). Make sure that you get
a minimum flow for IDLE an a modestly sufficient flow for MAX, that does the
cooling job without killing the combustion.
10. If you cannot find stainless steel pipe combinations that yield the
1-5mm gap, you can always regress back to alternating plates of +/-
11. If you are concerned about the water freezing in your system, you can
(a) add some 98% isopropyl alcohol and re-adjust the pulse frequency
accordingly; or (b) install some electric heating coils.
12. Do not let ANYONE ever compromise your dream, your freedom, your
independence, your truth.
1. Stephen Chambers 'Apparatus
for Producing Orthohydrogen and/or Parahydrogen' US Patent 6126794
2. Stanley Meyer 'Method
for the Production of a Fuel Gas' US Patent 4936961
3. Creative Science & Research, 'Fuel From Water', fuelless.com
4. Carl Cella 'A Water-Fuelled Car' Nexus
Magazine Oct-Nov 1996
5. Peter Lindemann's Free Energy site
and his article from NEXUS
'Where in the World
is All the Free Energy'
6. George Wiseman's Eagle Research
'The Gas-Saver and HyCO Series'
7. C. Michael Holler 'The Dromedary Newsletter' and 'SuperCarb Techniques'
8. Stephen Chambers 'Prototype Vapor Fuel
DISCLAIMER: The author of this document assumes no liability for the use or
misuse if this information; which is made available as public-domain
information, for the purposes of education, ecology, health, well-being,
freedom, liberty, and pursuit of happiness.
=== END OF CITATION ===
Resources at PESWiki.com
Page posted by Sterling
D. Allan, Aug. 25, 2010
Last updated September 26, 2010